VLOV by Qing Qing Wu S/S 2013: Design Serenity

 

 

Ever since his New York Fashion Week debut a few seasons ago, Chinese designer Qing Qing Wu has caught the attention of New York’s fashion elites and fashionistas alike with his fluid menswear silhouettes and light weight fabrics and construction for VLOV. Often, one is accustomed to the structured designs of menswear, but VLOV is an unexpected balance of lightweight silks, linens, and cottons that surprisingly holds impeccable tailoring.

Influenced by “tranquility and a serene sense of calmness” Qing Qing Wu reflects this in VLOV by constructing fluid designs in colors of light blue, light greys, beige, taupe, and other colors of pure nature. It’s often surprising for one to see such amazing designs with such delicate fabrics when applied to menswear, in fact most menswear designers avoid designing unstructured pieces because it’s too difficult to execute- and for Qing Qing Wu to execute such an amazing collection it shows his mastery of design.

Whenever a show commands some of the most recognizable names in the modeling industry such as Sean Opry, Sebastian Suave, Simone Nobili, River Viiperi, and David Agbodji, it sets the tone to one spectacular show- VLOV was sure to please even the most jaded fashion connoisseurs.  Having covered VLOV since its debut, I do have an affinity to the brand, but it’s great design that keeps me engaged and looking forward to another show!



 

 

 

Michael Bastian F/W 2012: "The Extra Man"

Michael Bastian’s Fall/Winter 2012 runway show was a scene of who’s who in fashion and celebrities alike. Outside, one sees familiar faces in fashion like Robert Verdi, CFDA’s -Steven Kolb, Paper Magazine’s -Mickey Boardman, Scene Magazine’s – Peter Davis, and every Men’s Magazine Editor from Details, GQ, and Nylon to name a few. But my moment of exaltation was when Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo (the very definition of fashion refinement) steps out of her service car only 2 feet away from me. This made waiting in the freezing cold without a jacket, (only because I was rushing from Lincoln Center, and the coat check line was horribly long), well worth it!

 Themed “The Extra Man,” the collection was more like “The Leading Man!” Set against a changing season backdrop where a group in the collection reflects a different season, it was a spectacular show of American fashion exuding first class tailoring. Michael Bastian takes one through a variety of environments where man is at any given moment. From the wild outdoors, as reflected by a layered turtleneck with a plaid button down, and a heavier wool button. Next, we find the ‘businessman’, perfectly tailored 3 piece wool suits, and one button pin stripe suits can get any business done! Then, there is that casual sporty but oh’ so cool guy, reflected in the collection by colorful wool knit sweaters, a preppy combination of colored corduroys with a three button blazer. And finally, we find the style conscious man, the one that loves to push the edge of fashion and doesn’t apologize for causing a stir. From the fur collar to regal purple pants, and layered leather jackets, every stylish man can definitely enhance his style with Michael Bastian’s F/W collection.

If the collection wasn’t enough, one couldn’t help notice the amazing roster Michael Bastian’s F/W 2012 collection had, from all the top male models in the industry to an iconic male supermodel Tyson Beckford who graced the runway while on retirement! I got an opportunity to ask one of the ladies working for Michael Bastian, who happens to be next to me during the show, “How did you guys manage to get Tyson Beckford to walk this show, I thought he retired?” to which she responds, “It’s Michael Bastian, we can make anything happen!”

Loden Dager F/W 2012: The Contemporary Man!

 

Sporty, functional, yet undeniably Sophisticated! Loden Dager's contemporary aesthetics is clear and full of life in its Fall/Winter 2012 collection. Clearly when a designer steps out of the box and presents skillfully tailored suits and separates in hues of blood orange, palm tree green, regal purple and burgundy in textures like tweed and wool it commands the attention fo the fashion industry.  

Young celebrities such as Kellan Lutz and fashion's biggest name like CFDA's Steven Kolb were some of the attendees seen in front row- friends and admirers of the designer and his phenomenal work. One couldn't help notice that male supermodels like Sean O'Pry and David Agboji sported 2 of my personal favorites of the collection. Sean wore a hand-tailored tuxedo jacket, hand-tailored vest, L/S formal shirt, and complemented by a hand-tailored suit trouser. On David a double zip shawl sweater, work shirt, and selvedge biker jeans.

Overall, I do appreciate a collection that infuses youth and exuberance in an old age sophistication- I would love to label this as a "Contemporary Dapper Don". 

Gilded Age F/W 2012: "The Speed"

The rebellious and restless nature of man and his endless quest to find new horizons while holding on to youthful defiance symbolize and inspire Gilded Age's Fall/Winter 2012 collection. The Gilded Age man is defined by his quest to discover his own identity; disregarding any other person's interferance and only following his own inner voice, his heart, and intuition- He has the courage to pursue his own destiny.
Creative director Stefan Miljanic founded Gilded Age on the principle of being socially conscious, committed to organic and handcrafted fabrics and product developement. Gilded Age's F/W 2012 is reflective of it's designer's principles with sweaters made from fine Peruvian cottons, baby alpacas and Italian merino and cashmere wools. For outerwear the brand uses nylon/cotton for sporty jackets, sherling lined, and moto leather jackets with body conscious silhouettes. A key component for the brand is its Baxten Slim and Gotham Straight leg jeans done in rich colors like antracite, deep burgundy, and slate blue.
Throughout New York Fashion Week one may come across numerous even countless beautiful women's collections but it has been a struggle to find quality, luxurious, yet wearable men's fashion. So it's a thrill to see that Gilded Age is helping menswear be more competitive during fashion week with its great use of materials, colors, and body conscious silhouettes that give some refinement to men's clothing but taking away that notion of 'stuffiness' that comes with button down shirts, ties, and slacks. Gilded Age combines casual and luxury seamlessly, thus giving men an option to look well put together without ever losing that free and rebellious nature every man tries to hang on to.

Dior Homme F/W 2012-2013: Uniform Dior!

 

Inspired by the simplicity and utilitarian nature of uniforms, Dior Homme's creative director Kris Van Assche puts his own unique spin on what uniforms can potentially become created through Dior for Homme Fall/Winter 2012-2013.

Certainly Assche steered away from the expected ankle cropped trouser trends for menswear F/W 2012-2013, by using full length pants throughout his collection. I find it commendable that Kris Van Assche brought Dior Homme on its on fashion path rather than just being another designer following what's trending at the moment. Using clean lines and structured utilitarian designs it may lack the flair and glitz like many of its contemporaries, but amazing tailoring proves that classic clothing never needs glitz and glamour to be stylish and eye catching. Sometimes, staying true to the classics produces outstanding work.

My personal favorite of the collection, is the knee length poncho both in the bird print and the olive green. I am always impartial to the unique and different pieces, and throughout any menswear show this piece is a definite eye catcher.

What makes Dior Homme F/W 2012-2013 interesting is that its not confined to one silhouette or aesthetic, some pieces were slim fit and others were oversized and often very cozy looking, and this is why season after season Dior stands out from the rest of fashion.