Dior Homme F/W 2012-2013: Uniform Dior!

 

Inspired by the simplicity and utilitarian nature of uniforms, Dior Homme's creative director Kris Van Assche puts his own unique spin on what uniforms can potentially become created through Dior for Homme Fall/Winter 2012-2013.

Certainly Assche steered away from the expected ankle cropped trouser trends for menswear F/W 2012-2013, by using full length pants throughout his collection. I find it commendable that Kris Van Assche brought Dior Homme on its on fashion path rather than just being another designer following what's trending at the moment. Using clean lines and structured utilitarian designs it may lack the flair and glitz like many of its contemporaries, but amazing tailoring proves that classic clothing never needs glitz and glamour to be stylish and eye catching. Sometimes, staying true to the classics produces outstanding work.

My personal favorite of the collection, is the knee length poncho both in the bird print and the olive green. I am always impartial to the unique and different pieces, and throughout any menswear show this piece is a definite eye catcher.

What makes Dior Homme F/W 2012-2013 interesting is that its not confined to one silhouette or aesthetic, some pieces were slim fit and others were oversized and often very cozy looking, and this is why season after season Dior stands out from the rest of fashion.



Givenchy menswear F/W 2012: Bold Rebellion!!

Bold reds, and rebellious skirts have certainly gained momentum in the Givenchy menswear collection. Riccardo Tisci's 'gothic wear' aesthetics is certainly still apparent season after season but heightened with bold colors and amazing fabrics for his menswear F/W 2012 collection.
When Givenchy first introduced men's skirts in its runway shows it was met with indifference, and criticism by the fashion elite, but talent and impeccable work always trumps doubt. Alongside perfect tailored red suits, men's skirts are now an undeniable statement piece for any Givenchy collection.
The perfect marriage of bold colors, masculine+feminine juxstaposition, and a rebellious matador bull ring on the models, one must admit that Givenchy has brought fashion to its new podium, this is the proverbial new frontier in fashion and Riccardo Tisci is pioneering the way.
Regardless of whether one may disagree that skirts will be a fashion norm for menswear, or a simple fad to gardner attention, like anything in fashion- unless it's debatable it's not note worthy. Personally, I may not wear every ensemble as is on the models, but that's the beauty of having key statement pieces, one may take a jacket, a shirt, or a trouser from each ensemble and incorporate it into one's existing wardrobe.
In summation I must admit I swoon over Givenchy, and in this particular collection I do feel several pieces are wearable straight off the runway, and separate each piece is a wonderful addition to any man's closet. Argue one may, but fashion is forever moving forward and Riccardo Tisci is undeniably leading this crazy industry into uncharted territory.

Yves Saint Laurent menswear F/W 2012-2013: Tailored Leather

Since taking the helm for Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati continues the rich history of the house and its impeccable tailoring and timeless silhouettes. Many fashion enthusiast may criticize Pilati for his lack of use of color and sometimes overly drab pallette, but I for one praise his aesthetics and how he stays true to what he sees as luxurious clothes modernized.

YSL's menswear F/W 2012 collection reminds one of the 1960's era Moscow, well tailored espionage, a bit dark, mysterious, but overall alluring with a sexy air of 'James Bond-esque'. Although the inspiration is vintage, one can clearly see from the slim fit jackets and vests, to the skinny leg ankle cropped trousers on luxe wool textiles that the cut and silhouette have definitely been modernized.

Throughout Men's FashionWeek one of my favorite pieces are the trench coat length jackets whether in leather or wool. In YSL's case (1st Picture Above) the fur lined lapel and collar trench coat is one show stopper that I fell in love with and is a must have for any fashion closet.

Another mention worthy about this collection is how leather trims were skillfully incorporated into classic conservative pieces like a double breasted blazer and jackets. In many cases such a risk would cheapen an ensemble, specially a 3 piece suit, but in YSL's case leather trims only help exude refinement and class throughout the collection.

Costume National F/W 2012: The Future is NOW!

Ennio Capasa for the past decade has been promoting his concept of 'EVOLUTION' while staying true to his core inspiration of Rock'n Roll in the Seventies.

Using today's technology to his advantage, Capasa creates minimalism with laser cut fabrics, pantone colors, and futuristic silhouettes for Costume National. Ankle cropped trousers, drop crotch pants, and double breasted jackets all came down the runway and right on trend for Costume National menswear F/W 2012 collection.

My favorite look of the collection is the opening look with the monotone beige cropped trousers, the knee length knit sweater, and two-button blazer. Though it's a bit monotone and plain, the chicness comes from its clean lines and modern textures.

Other key pieces that I found interesting throughout the collection are the forest green pieces, from trousers to tops and cropped jackets each ensemble screamed modern minimalism perfection.



Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 2012: Hit the Wall!

Literally, Jean Paul Gaultier has 'Hit the Wall', a fashion brick wall for his menswear F/W 2012 collection. With brick wall prints on tops, bottoms, and jackets it's a wall of fashion bricks going down the runway.

I must admit that this is definitely not my favorite Jean Paul Gaultier runway only because I don't see the story or a cohesive thought that brings all the clothes into one picture, but certain pieces of the collection I simply crave.

Pictured above, the fur lined sleeveless jacket paired with a two-button black blazer is a must have piece any fashionista needs in his fashion repertoire. I don't know if it's just me, but I can't see the appeal in the brick print pieces, yet I must admit it is buzz worthy in the fashion world and in true form characteristic of Jean Paul Gaultier.

My other favorite of the collection is the camel wool trench jacket with the leather cuff detail on the sleeves and fox fur collar. Amazing oversized lapel detail and leather trims simply makes this jacket stand above the crowd, it's luxurious yet street edgy- a perfect marriage of opposites.

Whether one loves this Jean Paul Gaultier collection or feel a bit in different about it, like everything in the fashion world it is up to one's interpretation that makes a collection interesting- in fashion you are nothing if no one talks about you, and in this case since this collection is up to debate it is EVERYTHING!!

Damir Doma F/W 2012: Nomadic Chic

When I look at Damir Doma's menswear F/W 2012, I am taken back to the days when Genghis Khan ruled mainland Asia and the steppes of Eastern Europe.

Although Damir Doma's silhouette is loose fitting and oversized, it still maintains a chic edge due to its dark mysterious persona. I am a definite fan of this nomadic quality to the collection, the layered oversized look with tribal print fabrics and fur vests feels so fresh and modern even though it's inspiration is almost 1000 years old.

I must admit I am a bit biased to anything that involves a great fur vest, and for a collection that exudes edge but still feels comfortable and wearble daily, I am a definite fan.

One upcoming trend that this collection has now become a part of is the cropped pants, runway after runway many of the trousers presented has been cropped either ankle length or higher, and that being said the blasphemy of wearing 'high-water pants' or 'floods' is now a major trend that's going to continue into Fall/Winter 2012.

DSQUARED2 F/W 2012: Class in Session

Class is in session and the subject is 'Cool Style'. The reality is that no matter what the story line, DSquared2 always marry cool and sexy effortlessly, and its F/W 2012 menswear collection is no exception.

Slim fitted sihouettes define what DSquared2 is about, and eye catching trims are the proverbial icing on the cake for each piece that Dean and Dan Caten create. My personal favorites in this collection are the metal and jewel studded jackets. The heavier fur lined and fur hooded jacket is a definite fashion must have, unlike other overly decorated jackets this one does actually does its purpose of keeping one warm, but still keeps an edge with its eye catching sleeves.

Another personal favorite is the green mohair sweater, its simple but has the feel of luxury. Many would feel they have to stay away from this kind of texture fearing it might be uncomfortable or bothersome, but from personal experience it's not as difficult to wear or take care of as many people claim.

All I can say is that if all schools specifically where I went is this fashionable, stylish, and well put together, I may have never left! When class is in session and DSquared2 is teaching, all fashionistas and lovers of style need to pay attention.